Grumpy Old Woman Rant

Haven’t been on any travels for a while and starting to get itchy feet. Hopefully in September going to Dublin for a few days….not really a holiday more of a fact finding mission to track down errant relatives on dads side via birth, death and marriage certificates. If I do come across a living relative all the better!!!

Been researching the family tree on and off for about a year and led down some dodgy tracks and dead ends but have discovered quite an interesting history, one fly in that tho grandfather on mum’s side might have been a very naughty boy but have to have definite proof, handwriting experts have been consulted and further investigation will be undertaken before flappy mouths let loose secrets!!!!

Having to take double dose iron supplements at the moment due to iron deficiency and boy are they NOT fun…last couple of days have been spent in one room and one room only!

In between visits to the little girls room! I have been watching Eurovision 2014….wow there were some truly awful songs this year, wondering how the Polish song got through but loving the bearded lady? from Austria. Wonder why Turkey haven’t entered a song…will watch with semi-baited breath on Saturday night.

Beyond Antwerp and heart attacks

Leaving Dordrecht I headed back on the train to Antwerp for the second part of my journey. Instructions for getting from Central Antwerp to Kruibeke my next destination seemed straight-forward. I’m no slouch to travelling, following maps, getting trains, buses and trams, planes etc is not a problem but arriving in Antwerp I think my mind blew a gasket or 4. I couldn’t find the tram stop I had been instructed to catch and to make matters worse I was lugging Sherman the tank with me in the guise of a suitcase and getting frazzled around the edges.

Spotting the exit to the station…I had in fact walked past it 4 times trying in vain to find the tram I decided to see how much a cab would cost. The tram instructions had stated Zwijndrecht the final stop wasn’t far and then catch a bus to Kruibeke my destination.

Behold the cab driver – not a local as it turned out and his english was as good as my arabic! With help from another driver, lots of gesticulating, translating and paper waving on my part to import where I needed to be I managed to agree a price of 15 euros from the station to Kruibeke. Heading onto the motorway I bligthly sat back and enjoyed the view of industrial landscaping. 10 mins later I started to worry..we had gone past signs for places that hadnt been mentioned on the email i’d got from Mieke my contact at Waterways and Sea Canals who were involved with Polders of Kruibeke my destination.

15 mins later I was officially worried and the yabbering Arabic from my driver was not settling my nerves. Ringing Mieke I informed her of the situation, still driving the cabbie took my phone and started talking to her. 15 mins later we took a sharp left and after numerous left turns, dead ends, crossing a dual carriageway twice and heart stopping moments…mine…we arrived at my destination…a small portacabin on an industrial estate by the river. Where my brain finally imploded as I disembarked the cab he said 90 euros…90 euros I almost screamed and didnt know whether to faint or hit him. Luckily Mieke was on hand to diffuse the situation and we managed to pay him and he left. It turned out he had read the instructions wrong. Kruibeke my destination was not what he had read hence the roundabout journey and heartstopping cab fare.

1hr later calmed by copious amounts of fresh coffee I joined Mieke on a tour of the Polders construction site wearing yet another pair of fetching green wellies..ooh goody

I admit it doesn’t look very appealing at the moment – bear in mind its the beginning of March, winter and freezing cold with construction still in progress. The Polders of Kruibeke is part of the Sigma Plan* developed after 1976 after the disastrous flood and is an ambitious plan to not only reclaim sea covered land but to restructure a surrounding user friendly dam to protect the land and bring back tourism. During the last 40 or so years the Skelde had flooded an area of land covering over 600sq hectares from Rupelmonde in the south, Bazel and Kruibeke in the north. With construction of the new dam nearly finished and land reclamation for nature, tourism and recreational facilities and pastures for animal husbandry for local farmers under way.

Visiting the site I saw the water inlet and outlet constructions along the project and the areas for birds, animals, recreation/tourism and wetland usage. The whole area when completed will be open to tourists for walking, cycling and other recreational facilities. Locals are finally coming round to the idea with opposition slowly fading away. I visited Rupelmonde, and Bazel on my trip and both towns are historically significant,

when the project is finally finished tourism in the region is going to increase dramatically. History, culture and recreational tourism is a boost not only for the immediate region but for Antwerp, Gwent and further afield.

Anyway you don’t want me on my soapbox about that so ill get off and get back to my trip. The next few days were spent in Antwerp getting lost again and enjoying the sites and then interviewing interested parties in the project. Then it was time to pack my bags and head back to Brussels and the eurostar for home.

*The Sigma Plan and further information about the Polders of Kruibeke can be found at https://www.step-projects.eu and http://www.sigmaplan.be/en

More boat trips, and an encounter with a beaver enclosure

OOPs thought id published this one – turns out I hadn’t so here it is better late than never…Day 2 in the Netherlands dawned bright and far too early for my liking. Today I was heading to another part of the Biesbosch in Dordrecht this time not as far to travel oh goody…my poor feet were killing me from yesterdays shenanigans. Picked up by Marianne De Braven who works for STEP at the hotel we travelled up to the start of the National Park. I have to admit it is beautiful up there, Marianne explained that part of the land has recently been reclaimed from its former life as a rubbish dump and they are waiting for the land to settle and in about 3-5 years the land will be added to the National Park and used for further recreation. Our first stop was at the Stayokay hotel, and a visit to the Eco Lodge a one-off innovative idea of sustainable tourist accommodation on the water. Comprised of a wooden 2 sided structure with glass. It looks like a sleeps up to 3 with a shower and hotplate – its a fantastic idea for ecological sustainable tourism if you like the idea of sleeping in a glass enclosed structure that people can see into whilst they are having their breakfasts!! I was hoping to get a closer look at it but the structure had moved away from the edge too far to jump down on the plank…I would definitely have ended the day in the water…little did I know that what where I was heading anyway.

Our next stop was coffee and the wonderful views from the man made lake that sits in the middle of the National Park . In summer it must be a haven for sun seekers and water lovers surrounded by National Park. After coffee we headed around the lake and towards the Observatory on the same site armed with a fully working 1928 Zeiss telescope along with the telescope there are interactive games and experiments to entertain kids and adults alike. If you have ever wondered how heavy Saturn is trust me its heavy as I found out when I picked it up and nearly dropped it on my foot. Unfortunately we didn’t have enough time to gaze at the stars through the telescope but ill do that on my next trip. Leaving the observatory we headed back toward the main office and center of the Biesbosch water based activities. I had been promised a Whisper boat trip around this part of the Biesbosch with a tour of the Beaver enclosure afterwards.

The whisper boat is an engineering miracle, the top frame of the boat can be lowered when sailing under some of the low bridges on the Biesbosch. (the pic of the boat isn’t mine it was taken by one of my fellow writers Karel vander Ploeg when he visited earlier in February)With its 16 feet of solar panels on top of the cabin it is truly ecologically friendly and supports the ethos of the Biesbosch and its vision to return to environmental sustainability. There are also 2 smaller whisper boats that take tourists round with canoes and smaller electric boats to visit some of the outlying islands.

After an hour on the Biesbosch with a tour guide who conducted the trip in Dutch (me nodding along with the commentary as if I understood every word..which I didnt) and a party of very excitable children on their spring holiday it was time to have a spot of lunch and meet up with Marianne and Simon who would be taking me for the afternoon to the Beaver enclosure and also onto one of the little islands dotted around the Biesbosch. My brother in law Pete would have been proud of me hopping onto the little boat used to take us to the little island, I look cool and nonchalant as if I did this every day..when in fact my knees where knocking and I was terrified of falling in…(punting in Cambridge has a lot to answer for so thanks Pete and Hazel for preparing me slightly).

I discovered many of the little inlets and islands dotted around the Biesbosch had been places of safety during WW2 for many seeking sanctuary from the German occupation and also for smuggling activities. For decades before the area had been abandoned by local inhabitants. Their way of life had slowly been eroded away and so over time most had moved away to the cities around the area. With its inhospitable and overgrown landscape many sought out the area to hide and survive somehow. At the end of the war some stayed and started working the land again, animals slowly returned and its now a haven for many endangered species of birds. Roe deer, rabbits and other small animals have returned and its now home to 27 nests of beavers who have returned to the area in the last 25 years. 20 varieties of willow flourish along with many other rare plants and species of birds. At the time of my visit buds were starting to appear on the willow and other plants but it was still a beautiful landscape.

I was looking forwards to the Beaver enclosure and dressed in some very fetching borrowed green wellies (I never thought id have to wear wellies again…if my mum could have seen me she’d have killed herself laughing) followed Simon over to the enclosure. It houses 4 beavers as more than that could not be sustained in the enclosure. Fascinating is not the word….the teeth these animals have are incredible..stripping bark bare and smooth to the touch, these little animals can drag almost 3 times their body weight around. The enclosure is quite large I wanted to take pictures but was worried about falling over and too busy listening to Simon talk about the animals and their habits. It appeared the furry creatures had taken a liking to a couple outside the enclosure and had tried to dig out under the fencing at one time. The conservators had lowered the fencing even further into the ground and I think the enclosure beavers had given up eventually or are lulling the locals into a false sense of security and are still trying but furtively!!!

It was starting to get late and as we headed back Simon suddenly announced a detour around the edge of the enclosure to show me the lodge that had been built for the beavers but they didn’t like it so they had moved to another part of the enclosure and built their own larger lodge. Traces of where the beavers had dragged wood and twigs around the enclosure were everywhere, slippery patches of mud sliding into the water trenches all over the enclosure. Up to that point I had managed to gracefully!!! jump over or step round the canals, this one was rather larger than the others so with instructions from Simon to take a flying leap…those of you who know me know i’m not built to be graceful or attempt any type of flying leap and as luck would have it as I took off my left foot slid on a particularly slippery patch of mud and instead of making it across the canal in one piece my right foot missed the opposite bank by about 1 inch and down into the freezing Biesbosch water my right leg plunged over the top of my welly. I wasn’t the only one tho Simon did the same as he was trying to help me pull my leg out of the mud he slipped and ended up with both feet in the water. I didn’t know whether to laugh of cry so biting my lip did what any stiff up lip Brit would do..soldiered on squelching!!!!!! Thankfully it was near the edge of the enclosure and the entrance so squished across the road and into the main building. Getting the wellies off proved to be a challenge…imagine riding boots and the challenge they prove to getting off. I am only thankful there were no pictures taken off this I would never had lived down the embarrassment. After a bit of a sit down with coffee and Simon changing clothes – poor man and a chat to Marianne about my articles and the nature of the Biesbosch it was time to return to the hotel as I walked into reception the girl on the desk looked me up and down and said “Good day by the looks of things??”

Onwards and upwards

The next part of the journey saw me travelling from Brussels Midi to Rotterdam. Uneventful..thankfully and I finally arrived at Rotterdam Central on Tuesday evening. I then had 25 minutes to get a ticket and find the platform to my final destination of the night – Dordrecht.

Arriving in Dordrecht feeling like id been pulled through a hedge backwards I grabbed a cab and relaxed only to nearly choke when the driver pulled up outside the hotel and said very nicely 18 euros please…no wonder he was so chirpy when I gave him the address. Yikes wont be doing that again I thought get the bus next time even if I have to drag Herman!!

The Hotel Watertoren in Dordrecht is billed as a 3 star converted water tower….1 out of 2 isnt bad, its certainly a converted tower but 3 star -hmmm me thinks not. Dont get me wrong the hotel is nice just not what id class as a luxury hotel. Nice room..it did have a fabulous bathroom…now that was luxury and fabulous food…thank you Jaap and Joke but a little bit of a disappointment. Anyway unpacked, settled in, soaked in the tub, nice cup of tea, reasonably early night.

I had every intention of getting up early the next morning..even set the alarm..however at 11am I finally opened my eyes, looked at the time and shot out of bed like a rat up a drainpipe!!!

I was due on a boat trip in Werkendam at 2, with no idea of where I was going or how to get there.

Breakfast shovelled down I asked for directions to the ferry. I had been advised that a push bike had been arranged and with the lovely bike lanes that are everywhere in the Netherlands I imagined a nice leisurely pedal to the ferry. However, the weather had other ideas, freezing cold and blowing a gale I considered my options – slim and non existant. The bike or hoof it…well antique bike was putting it politely and the thing had NO BRAKES as I discovered when I had a little pedal round the courtyard. To stop I had to pedal backwards, poor Jaap didnt know what hit him as I shot past him unable to stop nearly ended up in the dyke next to the hotel. My first full day in the Netherlands – going well so far!!!

Transport carefully laid aside with the promise of a bike with brakes for the following day from Jaap I decided to walk to the ferry only to discover it was a 3km walk to the ferry then another SMALL walk to the museum and boat trip in Werkendam. At this point I berated myself for being 44 and still not able to drive.

So the intrepid explorer set out on foot with Jaap and Jokes’ directions in mind I followed the long road which led up to the ferry. Long is a relative term in the Netherlands the road in fact was VERY long, at one point along a very isolated path and no other souls in sight…slightly scary At last I came upon the ferry and as luck would have it as I arrived the ferry was just boarding to head across the river to Werkendam. I wasnt the only foot passenger that day heading to the musuem, there was a Belgium couple heading for the boat trip as well. As we disembarked from the ferry they asked me if I could run??? Why I asked…oh the musuem is another 3km walk they said and the boat was due to sail in 30 mins…Dame Kelly Holmes im most definitely not and there was no way any of us were going to make it in time. A quick call to the museum advising we were on the way and we began the root march to the museum, about a mile or so up the road a car pulled up and the driver got out spoke to the couple and then turned to me and offered us all a lift bless him.

Finally on the boat a tad late we set out on the Biesbosch..snag no 389! the commentary was in Dutch so looking out the window and nodding sagely at certain points an also laughing when the others did, I dread to think what the Dutch couple thought – another loony English woman probably!! I looked like I understood everything being said HA HA. Thankfully the couple translated some pertinent information which I scribbled down for later perusal. The Biesbosch in that part of Belgium is quite harsh even though its the middle of winter it still felt desolate and lonely and freezing brrrr.

It has to be said I cant go on a trip without something happening and fate stepped in..the rudder or propellor broke – I never found out which and with a grinding and groaning of the engine and a 20 minute delay which excited the children on board the skipper managed to manouver the boat into a position to reverse out of a rather narrow inlet and head back for the museum with more groaning and grinding.

Back at the museum and in the warmth for the first time since I left my bed at 11am I wandered round the exhibits. The museum is well set out with a history of the Biesbosch well documented and the exhibits were all very visual and thought provoking. With information panels in Dutch and no sign of any staff I and the other passengers – all Dutch I may add wandered around the musuem to the strains of an unidentified classical music track..all very tranquil and soothing. Nodding at the exhibits I again pretended to understand what I was reading but to be honest it doesnt take a genius to know what the musuem was all about and the displays were all self explanatory even the glass case with a full layer of the water bed with the different species that lived in each layer was easy to understand. Having sated my curiosity and desperate to get warm I decided to tackle the walk back to the ferry. The Dutch couple by that point had disappeared so I was left to wander back alone. Having taken absolutely no notice of the route we came in I stood in the car park and looked about me, left to the mud track didnt think that likely, straight on towards another road or left. Luck was again with me that day – towards the road a group of men were doing the usual man thing with machinery standing around in a circle with a big digger in the middle chattering away in Dutch and not doing a lot.

Im not shy…not anymore anyhow lol, so strode over and asked which direction for the ferry. As one they turned, ooops I thought perhaps not one of my brightest ideas! but nay lucky again – a very kind…at least I think he was chap offered to take me to the ferry if I could wait 5 minutes…5 minutes heck id have waited 5hrs if it meant I didnt have to traipse back to the ferry in the freezing cold with sore feet (new boots). Sitting in the cab of his works van a sudden image of my mum popped into my head with the words “Never get in a car with a strange man”…too late I thought and not for the first time!!! Anyway everything was fine and dandy the chap worked for the construction company improving the site around the Biesbosch musuem and was heading back towards Dordrecht RESULT..

Trains, scary men, and earl grey tea that isnt tea

With tickets printed from the machine to get to London I stood on Ipswich railway station and looked at the time…hmm 25 mins to go before train was due…time for coffee and a nibble me thinks. Thus armed with a latte and chocolate fancy I awaited the London train. To my surprise it was on time, unable to find a willing hunk to help me wth the aforementioned sherman tank case, coffee and cakey onto the train I settled in a seemingly empty carriage to whisk me to London and the next part of my adventure.

10 mins into the journey I realised why the carriage was half empty…a very large and drunk skinhead at 11:30 in the morning tsk tsk was holding court by himself playing what can only be described as a cacophony (certainly couldnt call it music) without using earphones…for presumably the listening pleasure of his fellow passengers. My fellow travellers either not wanting to cause a scene or worse had declined to ask him to turn it down of even better off. At that moment the drinks and snack trolley came round and upon being asked for a can of beer the attendant (or whatever they are called on trains these days) asked him to turn the noise down. Either surprised or chastised he did so then beat a retreat not to be seen again!!!! The rest of that journey was uneventful and we arrived in London Liverpool Street on time.

Next decision to make…do I lug mr sherman tank around the underground or just say niet and get a cab…the niets had it as I pulled, dragged and forced the case across the station along escalators and into lifts. There was no way on earth I was taking this monster onto the busiest tube line in London and make it in 50 mins to St Pancras for Eurotar.

Once through check-in I had totally forgotten crossing a border (how?) meant I had to send the case through a scanner and it was with no help from the burly and surly customs man that I lugged it up onto the rails to trundle through the scanner and so did I…not the scanner I hasten to add – walk through barrriers without a beep or sirens going off yay.

Eurostar was uneventful and a pleasure with legroom to spare and plenty of chair to stretch out in and smack next to the buffet car nom nom. Arriving in Brussels 3 minutes late (shocking)..due to a hold up at the entrance to the Channel tunnel.

Entering Brussels Midi was fun and I found the right platform very easily as each platform has a huge screen attached at the bottom of its escalators and even bigger departure and arrival screens dotted around the station. Arriving with plenty of time to spare on this leg of my journey I found a coffee shop and sat down a cup of earl grey tea.

Interesting fact about tea in European train station…the tea comes in sugar like sachets with perforations along the sides, dunked into the water and left to brew…voila instant earl grey like tea.

Attack of the migraine

Forgive me fans! for not posting sooner, developed a killer migraine on 8th March and been unable to post till today…that’ll teach me to run out of tablets.

Now where was I? Ahh yes I remember…I had booked the transport and arranged the hotels, and also taken the time off work. SORTED!!

It wasnt until 2 days before I was due to go I had a panic attack about my passport. Oh I knew it was in date – just couldnt find the flipping thing..not in the usual safe places, they never are…panic set in at 00.00 on Sunday 24 February as I stared at the bombsite my flat had become in my increasingly desperate search for the little red book. Then it hit me as I munched my way through another extra strong mint…I had stashed it away for safety in the bag I was taking with me DOH!!!!

Monday was spent packing a baby suitcase, as I packed more and more jumpers and woolly socks and boots I wondered how I was going to get the essentials in…essentials being hairdryer and sraightners. Some women wont leave home without mascara…for me its my straightners. I refuse to look like the girl in the Crystal Tips and Alastair cartoon from the early 80’s.

After staring at the case that wouldnt/couldnt close I knew I was going to have to take the Daddy case I had…not good as its huge but I reasoned that half empty is better than having to leave things behind or worse taking another bag with stuff in and could stash my laptop etc in it. So finally at 01:30 26 February I collapsed into bed.

Bright and early a few hours later…not my choice im living next to a building site so at 7.30 every day the lovely considerate builders start banging and crashing outside the bedroom window 6 days a week, I was wide awake and raring to go…back to bed!!

Up and about, cab to the station booked and several cups of tea later, I emerged into the freezing cold day armed with a sherman tank for a suitcase and odd gloves..in my bombsite were the matching pair but I had been unable to locate them so sported 1 purple and 1 brown glove very stylish.

Planning the trip

What next?? Travel arrangements…do I fly, use a ferry or go by Eurostar?. having the patience of a dead rat!!! I decided to go by Eurostar and not have to check in 3hrs before my flights and sit around in airport lounges twiddling my thumbs or some such form of torture whilst waiting for the pilot to have his lunch! That decision made the next was which area to visit first…again not good with messing around and travelling here there and everywhere, I reasoned going to the Biesbosch in Dordrecht which is near Rotterdam in the Netherlands first and then travel back down to Antwerp and stay in Haasdonk which is very near to Kruibeke and the site of the Polders made more sense.

Little did I know at the time that distance was going to be a problem with my travel within the 2 regions, (my research wasn’t as thorough as it should have been).  I don’t drive – 44 years old with no license, not good and something I plan to change very quickly now back in the UK. Anyway that’s another story…

So armed with all the information I needed from Bruce about what was required and also with advice from Anita and another lecturer Sue Carpendale I plunged ahead with travel plans. First Eurostar to Brussels..easy peasy till my computer decided it didnt like my choices and refused to add anything to the basket..1hr later several calls to Eurostar, cookie clearing (computer kind not crumbly kind)  and some very unladylike expressions I was the proud owner of a return ticket from Ipswich to Brussels Midi for the beginning of my adventure on 26 February 2013.

Thalys in Europe next from Brussels Midi to Rotterdam,,no problem done in less than 5 mins..with a mad minute when I panicked thinking i’d got the train times wrong…yikes.

Finally hotel accommodation ..did I slum it and go budget or upgrade a little and have some luxury..nobrainer there – upgrade all the way. Hotel Watertoren a lovely old converted water tower in Dordrecht and a charming B&B The DeVitshaag in Haasdonk near Kruibeke which I was soon to discover was off the beaten track with no bus service!!!! Oh dear. On the bright side the owner of the DeVitshaag, Yolande proved to be godsend and  lovely to boot driving me to Kruibeke and also the tram stop so I could spend a day in Antwerp….that was an adventure in itself and another blog soon.

STEP in the right direction

Where was I? Oh yes so Anita and I met with Bruce Hanson who explained what was required…i’m not a journalist so was quite flattered when it was accepted that I would be writing from the UK side, and that the other people involved are journalism students…I feel a Pulitzer prize coming on!!

How to make a good first impression not…..called Bruce “Barry” at our first meeting, oops not my finest moment, however I don’t think he minded too much!!!!

So, what was it all about..STEP or Sustainable Tourism in Estuary Parks is about the preservation and future of 3 estuarine nature areas in Flanders, England, Holland all cooperating in the development of sustainable tourism in their areas. The Biesbosch – a wetland in the South-West of the Netherlands and the Polders of Kruibeke in Belgium which is a flood control project to protect over 600 hectares of land from the Skelde river flooding and the Norfolk Broads in the UK…but more about each project later.

Maps for each of the areas: Norfolk Broads, the Biesbosch National Park and the Polders of Kruibeke*.

 

      

*(images courtesy of http://www.step-projects.eu/english/home/map)

 

 

 

 

1st Blog

Well, where do I start? In November 2012 Senior Lecturer Anita Beresford Webb from the School of Business, Leadership and Enterprise at UCS Ipswich – where I graduated in 2012 with a 2.1 BA HONS (thank you very much) in Tourism Management sent me an email asking if I would interested in visiting something called STEP…(Sustainable Tourism in Estuary Parks). More about that later.

The idea being visit 3 areas, the Norfolk Broads here in the UK, the Biesbosch National Park in the Netherlands and the Polders of Kruibeke (Where)???? in Belgium. Explore each area, take pictures, talk to the parties involved then come home write promotional material for magazines, newspapers, social media etc promoting said areas. The idea being cross area promotion with links to each.

When I first read the email, it was a classic moment of rubbing my eyes and re-reading  just to make sure I was indeed reading it correctly.  Who else had been copied onto the email….no-one just me…WOW!

I heard nothing happened for a couple of weeks then I received an email asking if I wanted to meet Bruce Hanson who works for the Norfolk Broads Authority and the person responsible for STEP in the UK.